2003
- edition 2003
- diary
- participators
2002
- edition 2002
- diary
- participators
2001
- edition 2001
- diary
- participators
2000
- edition 2000
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- participators
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6 - 15 september | 16 - 30 september | 1 - 15 oktober | 16 oktober - 4 november
Diary: by Hans Reijnders (sculpture)
Saturday 6th, Sunday 7th and Monday 8th September 2003
Finally I, Hendrik and Renate arrive in the land of the rising sun. After having travelled for 36 hours we have now reached the small area called Hirado, where, during the coming month, we will be doing all kinds of activities under the banner of 12xholland.
While travelling from Fukuoka airport to Hirado we saw some typical Japanese houses with arched roofs. The trees here too remind us of the fact that we are in Asia now. The current temperature is 32 degrees and it is very very damp. I am longing to going to bed, but it will take some more hours until I will get the opportunity to do that. It is quiet on the streets, all the Japanese seem to have gone to bed. That’s no wonder because it’s past midnight already. It is a fascinating world that we see here. Weird sculptures, which turn out to be houses or office buildings. An architectural style, unknown in Holland. Still, they seem modern in appearance, with flights of steps outside of the houses. This means that the regulations for building houses are different from ours. The lighting on the streets with it’s soft yellow cream coloured light reminds me of Japanese paper lanterns. The moment we leave the civic area, the darkness appears and I can make out the vague outlines of the mountains coming towards us. In the distance I can faintly see the lighting of the bridge connecting Kyushu and Hirado Island. Only a few minutes more and I can finally go to sleep. Probably on a futon style mattress. But that does not bother me. At this moment I feel I will be able to sleep on anything.
Monday 8 September 2003
Tycho has invited us to have breakfast in Japanese style. That comes down to this: eating rice and fish while it is still early morning. Now I finally know where I am. Today we will also have a look at the apartments that have been allotted to us. Hendrik and Renate are the first ones to have a look. I think their apartment has a great view with beautiful green mountains and an old temple in the background and on the foreground I see a Shinto graveyard. I would like to be housed there, it’s just that it is a bit far from the city.
The apartment that was allotted to me is located right next to city hall, in the middle of the city centre. I am very satisfied with it. This largely because it has tatami matting on the floor and contains a lot of sliding doors. For one person the apartment is quite spacious. But for Dutch standards it is small. I myself am 1.82 m in height and the ceiling is very low. What is very noticeable is that you can hear everything the neighbours are doing. The house is not very well isolated, but I am of the opinion that this is typically Japanese, because in the really old houses the walls are made of wood, and the doors and windows have rice paper attached to them. Today’s aim is to explore the city a little bit and by doing that slowly start to feel more at home here, but this afternoon I will be having the first meetings with Machida about the stone I will be using for my sculpture and tonight we will be officially welcomed after arriving at the harbour by boat. Next a “welcome party” will be held at the Dutch pavilion of the harbour. I am really looking forward to that.
Tuesday September 9th 2003
This morning we had a meeting with the mayor of Hirado. Well, that was a lot of fuss. This time we did not have to take off our shoes in the areas we entered. The room was filled with people, among which a lot of photographers and journalists. We had to wait quite some time until the mayor came. The actual meeting was very cordial. We gave him some gifts and we were presented with a gift too. He made an unforgettable speech in which he stressed to importance of the relationship between Holland and Hirado. He told us a lot about the historical background existing between Hirado, Holland and it’s Dutch VOC and he told us he was pleased that we were participating in the 12xholland project. Afterwards we had to pose for the press and were interviewed quite a few times. It was rather fun but because we cannot understand Japanese and they cannot understand Dutch we had to communicate through the use of an interpreter. We were given a lovely cup of bright green tea (almost fluorescent, but still purely natural). All in all a very special occasion.
Together with Machida, Oseki and two sculptors I have this afternoon been searching for stones to use to create my sculpture. The rocks are taken right from the ground and are remnants of volcanic eruptions which occurred millions of years ago. The largest stone I selected for my project weighs 4 tons. The smaller ones weigh a lot less. The idea is to put the statue at the Hirado harbour with a view of the castle of the Matsura-clan visible at the other side of the water.
Wednesday September 10th 2003
Today I gave a lesson to Japanese children for the first time. Now that was a new experience. It took a 45min drive through the inlands of the island. It was a beautiful trip, with rice fields left and right and mountains in the backgrounds. From time to time the sea became visible and I could see all sorts of small islands. It reminded me of the Zen garden in Kyoto that I had seen before. Unfortunately we did not have time to stop and take a closer look but to me the view was a feast for the eyes, and I felt like being in a large scale Zen garden.
At the school I was very warmly welcomed. Together with Katsura, who would be interpreting for me, I was introduced to the school principal and we were offered a cup of green tea. He told us a thing or two about the school. It is remarkable that although the school offers room to 280 pupils the current total number of pupils comes up to no more than 18, divided into six classes. In the sixth grade was only 1 pupil, and 3 in the first class. The teacher had instructed the children well and the drawings containing the base sketch of the plaques to be made later were already finished. I talked a bit about the origin of the Dutch plaques. After that we started everybody, old and young, started to work with the clay. What was remarkable was the quiet, dedicated and disciplined way in which the people worked. After several hours of intensive claying the result was stunning. They had understood the meaning of this project well. I went out the door in a good mood, and the children waved me goodbye.
Thursday September 11th 2003
Today it is raining and I got an unpleasant phone call: the rain had washed my sculpture stones clean and with this a crack had become visible in the largest stone. This means we will have to start looking for a new stone. We will do that later. We will also be taking a look at the area where the sculpture will be put up. It turned out to be a fantastic spot located at the harbour, with a view on the castle of the Matsura. A beautiful place to daydream. Because of circumstances we cannot proceed further at this time and I, as well as Renate are invited to pay a visit to the whale museum situated on Ikitsuki Island. It’s nicely and conveniently arranged exhibition gives an idea of the whale catchers, with a peculiar detail: whale genitals preserved in water. The top floor contained an overview of the catholic religion on the island, consisting of Shinto, Buddhist and Catholic elements merged to a whole. I was amazed at it all. In the evening I, Renate and Hendrik received our first Shodo lesson. It wasn’t all that bad. With the use of our interpreter Koteda, the shodo master let me know I had a natural talent for it. In all the lesson took two hours and reassured as I was I went home in a good mood. All in all a busy day, I went to bed after drinking a beer.
Friday September 12th 2003
There is some commotion on the island, a typhoon is coming. Today Makiko and I went to Tasuke elementary school. The children here too were very enthusiastic. They attentively listened to my story about the Dutch plaques and their use. After this everybody got down to it. Meanwhile the wind howled trough the school building, and sheets of paper went up into the air all the time. Because of the typhoon my scheduled meeting with the Japanese papermaker was cancelled. The authorities have given their approval for the usage of the spot where my sculpture will be set up, and they will grant the necessary permits.
I am glad they are willing to, because otherwise things could probably have been stalled for a very long time.
Saturday September 13th
Today I have to get up as early as seven thirty to go and look for a new stone with Oseki. We find one which is even bigger than the previous one. This one weighs at least four and a half tons, a gigantic stone. We found two smaller stones as well which will be used to create an interesting composition. By doing this I unfortunately missed my appointment with L1, the Limburg radio station.
Sunday September 14
Had a look at some places in Hirado, and visited typically Japanese shops, like a lantern store and a stamp maker.
Monday September 15
We dug a hole to pour cement in which will serve as a foundation for the sculpture. Next we all went to Sasebo to do some shopping. Yoriko and her friend accompanied us. After having shopped we went to a karaoke bar, where people sang with full voice. When it is my turn to sing I find the words on the screen disappear to fast for me to read and I just hum instead.
Tuesday September 16th
Today again I go to Tasuke elementary school with Makiko to continue working on the clay relief. It is now ready to be baked. I still cannot do anything because the stone has not been fitted yet. I’ll just have to wait and see what happens.
Wednesday September 17
Today I went to Hirado elementary school opposite to my apartment. I have looked at the school from the outside several times before and what surprised me is that the walls located at the playing ground all have paintings on them of historical events connected to the 400 year anniversary of Dutch Japanese relations. This means a lot of Dutch flags. You can easily notice that this school is located in a city centre. It is a lot noisier, which is logical because it is a large school with approximately 600 pupils. Nonetheless here too a great deal of attention is given to my plaque project. As with all other schools here too we lunch here and what attracts my attention is that the children who bring the food to the classes all wear white shorts and mouth caps. It all happened in a very disciplined way and there is no commotion or chaos at all. The meals are very good, among others we eat miso soup, rice, some vegetables and meat. Prepared in a Japanese way. The children are really nice and sweet, making you want to take one home with you.
Thursday September 18th
Today the large stone is finally fitted, which causes for a lot of commotion. A large hoisting crane and a truck are in place, the streets have been closed off. The work can begin. Loads of people come round to have a look, you don’t see a big rock like this everyday. Now that the stone is hanging in the air connected to cables I can admire it in all it’s glory. Kashii and Sakamoto are present as well and together we make a decision about the best position for the stone. Finally: I’m happy this is finished, now I can finally get started. Afterwards I went to eat Korean with Tycho at a restaurant. In the evening I took part in another shodo lesson. My skills keep improving and I feel really good about things. I still have not told anybody that I have practiced it before. Hendrik is still having some trouble, Renate is doing quite alright.
Friday September 19
Today I found the first model to sit on the stone. Using chalk I make an outline of his rear and legs. It is the bricklayer who assisted us with pouring in the cement. This afternoon I will leave for a Shinto wedding to which I am invited. It will take a six hour drive trough the inlands at Kokura (Northern Kyushu).
Saturday September 20th
This weekend we are in the vicinity of Kokura somewhere in the mountains. We are invited to attend a Shinto wedding of the daughter of a friend. They are Catholics by birth. Their living room has been divided into two with sliding doors. One half contains a Buddhist altar, the other one contains a Shinto altar. It is clad with lovely decorations, presents and other decoration items. It looks really really nice and we are impressed by the atmosphere. We were very warmly welcomed and treated as if we are one of the family in the scheduled festivities.
Sunday September 21st
Get up at fifteen past eight. For the occasion there is red rice, the colour red symbolizes good fortune. Slowly the family members and friends arrive. The tables are set and an extensive meal is eaten. The ladies are clothed with kimonos by a dresser. This takes about one and a half hours per person. The men wear black tailcoats and thus we leave for the temple where the wedding ceremony will take place. The Shinto ceremony is very solemn, from time to time I could hear classical Japanese gagaku music coming from behind the paper walls. Only the close relatives and the best friends are allowed to attend the ceremony, so we are honoured to be able to be a part of this. The bridal couple looks enchanting. She is dressed in a kimono of cream coloured silk, decorated with cranes and flowers. Her hairdo is beautiful (we suspect it is a wig) with upon it very special headgear. The bridegroom is dressed in traditional black with touches of grey. After the ceremoniousness we have dinner in a restaurant, which is also attended by the other family members and friends. Tables are decorated with all kinds of delicious things like large sized raw fish and lobster. Our plates have a number of delicacies on them, among which for instance black beans with gold leaf. While we are starting to eat dinner the bridal couple has changed dresses and reappear in a beautiful red kimono. Under the bright light of the spotlights and the carefully selected romantic music they stride towards their table at the front of the stage. Speeches are held, and ancient wedding songs are sung. The atmosphere is still very solemn, no sign of exuberance is to be seen. Then again the bridal couple disappears for another changing of clothes. This time they are dressed in western bridal wear. Now the atmosphere becomes a bit more relaxed, friends sing karaoke songs and sake is drunk in large quantities. When the bride finally thanks her parents a lot of tears are shed. With a bag full of presents we return home. All in all a memorable day.
Monday September 22nd
I worked at my sculpture the whole day, new models are found. Gradually my idea starts taking shape.
Tuesday September 23rd
Tuesday morning we are going to draw. I have to be at City Hall as early as 8:15 where we will be brought to the Kigatsu temple located somewhere on the island. Loads of children and adults are participating in this sketch event. For a moment I feel like I am an art teacher again, and tell a thing or two about colour and shape and light and dark. My directions are received and tried out with great attention. I do this together with Yamada Yukari. In the afternoon I work with my sculpture again.
Wednesday September 24th
We will go to Okawara elementary school with Katsura, who nonetheless already having done a 24 hour shift still carried on. He is my interpreter. The children finish painting the relief pieces today and the result look really really nice. People at the school think of the workshop as being an ultimate success and that I was successful in passing on that piece of Dutch history. In the afternoon I work at my sculpture again.
In the evening we are invited to take a look at a private collection of erotic prints and objects. What strikes us is that on all the items the genitals are covered up with tape. Because of this and because of the damage caused by moisture the items look miserable. Even the splendid prints by Utamaro painted on silk have not escaped this pitiful fate. Quick restoration would be in order.
Thursday September 25th
Worked at my sculpture today. In the afternoon we sit on the very edge of our seats as we attend a performance of sacral sword dances in a Shinto temple. Luckily nobody gets hurt. Next we are invited to walk along with the Shinto priests during a procession trough the village. We receive a wooden box to collect money from people standing alongside the road who get something resembling a palm tree branch in return for their monetary donation. The majority of the people are women, the men are at work. We are cheered on a lot and our boxes are filled rather well. In the evening we make stamps at the home of the Shodo master. It is the first stamp I ever made. It’s not at all easy because it takes hours of concentration to cut out a Japanese character in a small stone. The meaning of the character is related to my name. The end result, with a little help of the shodo master looks really professional and I am very happy with it.
Friday September 26th
Today I visit Tasuke elementary school. Here too the children are putting the final touches to the relief works. Here too the result is magnificent. The children are so cute! During the afternoon we are given rice with mini squids in it. It tastes good. Fortunately they are not alive anymore. After this I go to work and in the evening we take a look at Mori’s sake brewery. There we get some explanations about how sake is made from rice. Afterwards we are allowed to taste several different kinds of sake and are given the opened bottles to take home with us. Kampai.
Saturday September 27th
Worked at my sculpture the whole day. It is getting along pretty well.
Sunday September 28th
Today I again spend the whole day working at my sculpture, I has to be finished. I’ll have complete it by Sunday. Meanwhile Hendrik is busy doing his series of simultaneous dammen games. The dammen tournament is creating quite a stir.
In the evening Mieke and me go for a quick walk and end up at a small fishing harbor at the other side of the castle. We are invited to watch and see how caught fish are sorted out, it is mainly flying fish (ago). People enjoy our presence, the grill is fired up and they barbecue some fish for us. Accompanied by a two litre bottle of sake we head for home in high spirits.
Monday September 29th
While I am busy working at my sculpture, Kashii, one of the sculptors from the area, pops round to take a look. The fact is that I borrowed his tools and he makes me the offer to help me out in case I become pressed for time. The same goes for Sakamoto, another sculptor. I consider their offer because only little time is left. In the evening I decide to take their offer.
Tuesday September 30th
Today I do my last workshop, at this school in the middle of the village. There were lots of people milling around. They are second grade children and are actually a little bit too young to participate in this project. Nonetheless we are still having fun, the workshop takes longer than planned.
Wednesday October 1st
Kashii Hirokatsu and Hiroto Sakamoto, the two sculptors, are standing at the ready when I arrive. We are working hard and the atmosphere is great. Through the use of broken English and mostly a lot of Japanese it is clarified what has to be done with the sculpture. I experience this as an optimal form of exchange and we are devising plans for another possible exchange like this in the future. The exchange would for instance exist of a symposium of sorts with participating sculptors from the Hirado area and Dutch sculptors. I heartily support this idea.
Thursday October 2nd
Today is the last day to work at my sculpture. Kashii has come again, and he is helps me out all day long. We finish up the final bits and at the end I chisel my name in the sculpture and dye it over with red paint. The sculpture looks fantastic. The enclosure placed for protection is taken down and there the sculpture stands for everybody to see. The people present tryout the statue and have a sit on it even before it is unveiled. A nice compliment from a passer-by: by sitting on it he got the feeling that he was in contact with the stone and it made him feel as if he was one with the sculpture.
What else could a sculptor wish for.
Friday October 3rd
Today the unveiling of the sculpture at two o’ clock.
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6 - 15 september | 16 - 30 september | 1 - 15 oktober | 16 oktober - 4 november